Monday, November 17, 2014

Berlin Strasse, Part II

So in the first article, we covered the basic paintjob for the Commission Figurines Berlin Strasse. Now, we kick it up a notch.

The first thing that we addressed was the ground plate. Now, for LoS reasons I wanted the walls removable from the ground plate, but I still wanted the ground to look well textured. To accomplish this, I used a home made "urban debris" basing mix. Pretty easy to do, it just requires a lot of components- the more the better. In this case, I have three different sizes of slate chips, two different grits of black ballast,  some grey ballast, well plucked apart cork, small cuts of pinning wire (about a millimeter in length), playground sand, and ground up acrylic sprue to simulate glass.

Lay down a covering of glue, making sure to avoid where the walls should go. Test fit the walls in, and remove them again. If there's no glue on them, you're clean. 

Now dredge the ground tile with your mix. Once it's dry, again test fit the walls. If you can see ground tile, carefully repeat making sure you have full coverage.

Now, on to the windows. There's three different types of windows we're doing here: intact, broken, and shattered on the floor. For all of them, you're using the same material, and it's one you already have: clear plastic blister/clamshell packs.

This material makes great windows for a few very good reasons.  Number one, odds are you have it and just throw it out. Number two, it's incredibly easy to cut and won't crack while you're working with it like acrylic. Number three, unless your company sends some really funky clamshells, it's going to be flat. Number four,  it's about as close to the right depth as you can get.

For in tact windows, measure out the size of the window frame onto your plastic, marking with a grease pencil or felt tip. Next just cut with scissors or hobby knife as you choose- I find the scissors are easier for straight lines. I have two adhesive methods. The first is the one we used for the bubble helmets. The second is to use something like Woodland Scenics Water Effects. Avoid suger glue as it will cause a frosting effect (unless your building is for a snow themed table, then by all means save a step).

Broken windows are done similarly, except that you then cut jagged shapes out of the window pane before installing. How much is left im the frame is up to you. You can just punch bullet holes through it, or go all the way to only small bits of glass left. Glue in as above.

Now... what to do with those cutouts of glass? Apply them to the floors as shattered pieces. Realistically,  the glass should normally shatter out not in, bit it's a little trick that adds a lot to the appearance so we make due. I decided not to apply any to my ground floor inside or out because the ground tiles get switched around building to building a bit, and it would annoy my OCD if they didn't line up. 

So, for this one, we're only going to apply it to the second floors. Basically, take your cutouts from the window in question (or another scrap piece of plastic) and shave it down into very small pieces. Then grab a pva glue that dries clear. Apply the glue to the floorboards in small dabs, and use tweezers to place the glass shards. Haphazard placement is the order of the day.

And there you have it. As ordered to busted up in no time at all. You can paint storefronts on your intact windows as appropriate (I find doing so before assembly is easier), and for a little blood on the glass use Tamiya translucent red or a red wash/glaze compound mixed with just a little red paint. Now you've got a building worth holding up in.

Tune in next time for carpets and wallpaper!

I'll see you on the other side of the table,
The Second Class Elitist


  1. Wicked looking ruins, keep up the outstanding work!

    1. Thank you sir! Almost done with this one... then two more buildings to go! :-) I love me some articulated terrain.